The Safety Queue: 2016

Wednesday, July 6, 2016

Machine Guarding 101

Machine guarding is a very important safety control. Guarding can…

Protect against:

• Debris, particulates and other projectiles from flying out of the machine
• Pinch-points caused by moving components
• People from entering energized work areas
• Machines or components within machines from inadvertently shifting or moving during operations
• Sparks, electrical arcs and internal fires from expanding beyond a controlled area within the machine
• Whipping from broken belts and other materials under high tension or stress
• Using ventilation systems and hoods to reduce or prevent inhalation of hazardous fumes
• Using retaining walls, enclosures and spill containment devices to prevent chemicals, objects and other materials from reaching undesirable areas

Guidelines for ensuring machine guarding are effective:

• Ensure the guarding is properly fastened or anchored and not loose.
• Verify the guarding is strong enough to withstand the expected forces.
• If the guarding is perforated (for example a fence) then the holes in the guarding should be smaller than the smallest object that could fly from the machine.
• Always inspect and verify the guarding is adequate before operating the machine.
• Machine Guarding
• Never adjust a machine while it’s running – see Operators Manual for proper safety procedures.
• Never wear loose clothing, jewelry or leave long hair unsecured where they can be drawn into equipment.
• Utilize Lockout/Tagout to prevent movement of parts while working on equipment.
• Never place body parts in areas where there may be ‘stored energy’; even once the machine has been de-energized (augers/blades that are clogged with debris may still move suddenly once the debris is unclogged).
Be sure all warning labels are properly maintained on equipment. When they are no longer legible they must be replaced (see operators’ manual for proper placement and ordering details).

Tuesday, July 5, 2016

Chainsaw Safety - Things to Keep in Mind

Do you know approximately what percentage of all woods accidents in a year are typically the

result of a chain saw cut?

30 Percent

Do you know how fast a chain saw blade can move at full throttle?

45 MPH

Do you know which age group of operators are at the greatest risk for injury?

Younger Operators

Do you know how many of all chain saw accidents could be prevented?

Almost all of them

Chain saws are powerful tools that make your job of cutting firewood and fallen trees and

removing small trees much easier. But their power makes them very dangerous tools.

Most accidents are the result of a moving chain contacting the operator in some way.

The good news for you is that there are several things you can do to keep yourself from becoming a victim.

YOU ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR OF

YOUR OWN SAFETY. HOW?

1. Know your saw and how to operate it before you use it. That means reading and

understanding your operator's manual. If there are instructions you do not understand, talk to

your chain saw dealer or to someone who is very familiar with how to use your chain saw.

2. Take the time to prepare for the job. This includes several factors discussed in this

information fact sheet and probably in your owner's manual.

3. Practice! Begin with logs on which you can make trial cuts to get the feel of your saw and

the way it handles.

4. NEVER WORK ALONE! At least be within yelling distance of help.

Even if you have used your saw a few times before, or you've used it once a year for the

past several years, these are still important steps to take and precautions to think about.

WHAT SAW SHOULD YOU CHOOSE?

The best saw for you is the one you can comfortably handle and is appropriate for the

type of work you do most often. There are also many safety features you should look for. NOTE that these features do not prevent accidents, they only reduce the risk to you.

Lightweight saws Good for occasional use: cutting limbs, firewood and small trees.

Midweight saws Better for more frequent use.

Heavyweight saws For PROFESSIONAL use only.

ANTI KICKBACK DEVICES

Chain brake stops the chain if kickback occurs. This can mean the difference between possibly a speed of 45 MPH and 0 MPH if the chain actually contacts you.

Throttle Interlock prevents the throttle from accidentally advancing or inadvertently moving by

automatically returning the throttle and chain to idle when the trigger button is released.

Hand Guard will keep the left hand from slipping into the chain.

Balance is not a device, but something to look for. You can maintain better control over the saw

that is well balanced in your hand if kickback occurs.

Anti-kickback chains reduce the forces on the chain that cause kickback.

WHAT SHOULD YOU DO TO PREPARE FOR

CUTTING?

CLEAR YOUR WORK AREA: Make sure there are no nails in the wood or loose objects in

the area where you are cutting, such as twigs, brush, leaves and stones.

CHECK YOUR CHAIN'S CONDITION AND SHARPNESS: (Follow the instructions in

your manual and use the proper maintenance tools.)

Sharpness - a sharp chain make the chainsaw easier to use.

Tension - if the chain is too loose, it may derail and cause a severe injury; but if it is too tight,

it may bind and also cause an accident or damage to the chainsaw.

Idle speed - prevents the chain from rotating when the controls are in the idle position.

All nuts and screws should be tight. Everything should be well lubricated.

FUEL THE SAW IN A SAFE PLACE: Completely wipe off any spilled fuel and move the

chainsaw to a new location before starting the engine.

CHECK THE CONDITIONS IN WHICH YOU ARE CUTTING: If you are felling a tree,

make sure you consider which way the wind is blowing in deciding which direction the tree should fall. Also look for a lean in the tree and a heavy imbalance if several large limbs are all on one side of the tree.

IN EVERY CUTTING SITUATION: you must make sure you have secure footing. If the

ground is slippery from rain, snow or ice, then you should not cut there. Always look for broken

limbs or other trees caught in the tree you want to cut.

PLAN YOUR ESCAPE ROUTE: Make sure there are no obstacles that can cause you to trip.

Then, after you have made your cut, you will be able to move rapidly at least 25 feet away from the tree at a 45-degree angle without any hazard. If you have an electric saw, be careful not to trip over the cord.

ASSESS YOUR OWN PHYSICAL CONDITION: Cutting with a chain saw is physically

demanding, even for strong persons, so do not use a chain saw if you are not physically able to

handle it. And take plenty of rest breaks before you get tired. BE ALERT! Otherwise you put

yourself at a severe risk.

Under NO circumstances should you be under the influence of ANY substance -- this includes

drugs, alcohol AND cold medicines -- that can impair your vision, dexterity or judgment.

WHAT CLOTHING SHOULD YOU WEAR?

Wearing the proper clothing is one of the best safeguards for you to reduce the possibility of

serious injury.

Wear sturdy, snug-fitting clothing that gives you complete freedom of movement. Do not

wear anything loose that could catch in the moving chain, such as sleeve cuffs, cuffed pants,

scarves, loose long hair (tie it back), jewelry.

Heavy duty, non-slip gloves will improve your grip and protect your hands from abrasions,

cuts and splinters.

Sturdy boots with non-slip soles ensure good footing; and protective toes and high top boots

protect your feet and ankles.

Wear a non-fogging, vented face screen or safety goggles to prevent injury from flying chips

or a chain that may break off and fly toward your face.

Wear an approved safety hard hat. If it is properly fitted, it will be cool, comfortable and

provide protection from falling limbs.

Chain saws are very noisy, so ear muffs or ear plugs are essential to protect your hearing.

Chaps made for use when using chain saws protect your legs from severe cuts should the

chainsaw slip.

WHAT'S THE BIG DEAL ABOUT KICKBACK?

Kickback is one of the greatest saw hazards. It occurs when a force throws the saw rapidly and

sometimes uncontrollably towards you. It is a very violent and sudden motion which can severely or fatally injure you. There are several causes:

an abrupt change in wood character -- hitting a knot or a nail
striking a nearby limb with the tip of the moving chain while cutting
running the chain too slowly twisting the saw in your cut so the chain grabs using a dull or loose chain
having a loose grip on the saw or cutting with only one hand
not paying attention

But kickback can be prevented by a few steps and precautions on your part. These DO NOT

PREVENT kickback completely, but they do reduce the possibility of it happening to you.

The more you understand kickback and what it can do to you and your saw, the better chance you

have of controlling its surprise movement by keeping your balance and control over the chain saw.

Always hold the saw firmly with both hands and keep the left arm as straight and stable as

possible

Use a saw equipped with a chain brake, anti-kickback chain, or other Anti-kickback

devices.

BUT, do not rely exclusively upon safety devices.

Watch for twigs that can snag the chain -- the area should be free from any obstructions.

Cut with the lower part of the saw blade - not with the tip or nose.

Maintain a high saw speed when entering, cutting and leaving the wood cut.

Keep the chain sharp. DO NOT cut above mid chest height -- the saw is too close to your

face.

DO NOT cut brush or shrubbery.

Use only replacement bars specified by the manufacturer.

WHAT JOBS ARE NOT FOR YOU AND YOUR CHAIN

SAW?

If possible, have a buddy with you so that you do not have to work alone; but NEVER allow

someone else to hold the wood while you cut.

You should also re position the log between cuts, NOT while the chain saw is still running or in your hand.

Never cut small, flexible branches or brush with your chain saw. Their size and flexibility can easily cause the saw to bounce toward you or bind up with enough force to cause a kickback. The best tools for that kind of work are a hand saw, pruning shears, an ax and other hand tools.

WHAT JOBS SHOULD YOU LEAVE FOR THE

PROFESSIONAL?

Some jobs are too risky for you to try. They may be jobs that require a heavyweight saw, special

training or years of experience.

Do not fell medium to large trees because it is very complicated and dangerous. Leave it to

the pros.

Do not work from a ladder or from within the tree. Leave it to the pros.

Do not do boring cuts because it is very risky unless you are trained for the job. Leave it to

the pros.

CHAIN SAW TROUBLESHOOTING

If you are having difficulty cutting or the saw is cutting poorly, there are several problems you

should consider:

the chain is dull
the chain is improperly sharpened
the chain is installed backwards
the chain is not properly tensioned
the bar and chain are not properly lubricated
the guidebar is damaged
the exhaust ports are dirty
the fuel filter is dirty
the air filter is clogged
the spark plug is fouled

Your chain saw will also give you clues when it is time to sharpen the chain.

when you notice the chain tends to walk sideways while cutting

when the cut produces fine powder instead of chips

when you find yourself pressing down hard to keep cutting

when you smell burnt wood

when it takes considerably longer to complete cuts made in less time earlier on the job

FIRE PREVENTION

Gasoline and the hot chain saw engine can be contributing factors in starting fires in the woods.

You should take precautions to prevent fires.

There are five very important rules to remember:

NEVER fuel a saw while the engine is running.

NEVER fuel a hot saw.

NEVER smoke or have any type of flame while you are around a saw or during fueling.

NEVER start the saw where you fueled the engine.

Keep leaves and dry materials away from the hot muffler.

OTHER SAFELY RULES TO REMEMBER

BEFORE starting the engine, make sure the chain is not contacting anything.

DO NOT let the saw rest on your leg or knee while you start the engine.

Do not drop start the chainsaw

ALWAYS maintain control by standing securely, holding the saw firmly and taking your hand off the trigger between cuts.

DO NOT work when you are fatigued.

Keep the handles dry and clean and free from the oil and fuel mixture.

Whenever you are cutting, be sure your body is clear of the natural path the saw will follow when the cut goes through.

NEVER straddle the log to make a cut.

ALWAYS shut off the engine before setting the chain saw down: even when you are retreating from a falling tree

Make sure the saw is off and the chain has stopped before making any adjustments or repairs.

Do not run the saw indoors.

LIMBING

Stand on the opposite side of the tree whenever possible, using it as a barrier between yourself and the limb you are cutting. Do not over stretch yourself to do this because you are less stable.

Do not face the limb you are cutting squarely -- stand at a 45-degree angle to prevent the

saw from striking your leg if it slips.

If you are on a hill, stand on the upside of the hill.

NEVER cut limbs above mid-chest height.

Do not cut limbs that are supporting the log.

Friday, July 1, 2016

Clothes Dryer Safety

Clothes Dryer Safety

Numerous appliance products, if not properly installed, used and maintained, can become fire hazards. One appliance often overlooked in the home is the clothes dryer. According to the National Fire Protection Association, in 2006, more than 16,000 home structure fires were caused by this appliance. And the leading cause of these fires was a lack of maintenance. Items such as clothing, dust, fiber, or lint, normally found in a dryer, accounted for 60% of the combustible materials first ignited in clothes dryer fires. To avoid a clothes dryer fire, follow these essential safety precautions:

Don't Forget! Clean your lint vent!

• Clean the lint filter in the dryer before or after each use because accumulated dust and lint can be a fire hazard. Do not operate the dryer without the filter. Also, remove accumulated lint around the drum.

• Make sure that the dryer is plugged into an outlet suitable for its electrical needs as overloaded electrical outlets can result in blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers.

• Verify that the exhaust vent pipe is not restricted by snow, leaves, or other materials and the outdoor vent flap will open when the dryer is operating. Rigid or flexible metal venting material should be used to sustain proper air flow and drying time.

• Do not leave the dryer running if you leave your home because, if it malfunctions, no one will be there to avert a possible disaster.

• Keep the dryer area clear of combustibles such as boxes and clothing.

• Never dry items that have come in contact with flammable substances such as cooking oil, gasoline, paint thinner or alcohol. Even after washing, clothing can still contain residues that can ignite.

The Dangers of Driver Fatigue

Driver Fatigue

Symptoms, Cause and Effects

Being fatigued significantly increases the risk of a crash. It makes us less aware of what is

happening on the road and impairs our ability to respond quickly and safely if a dangerous

situation arises. Driver fatigue is believed to contribute to more than 30% of road crashes.

Symptoms of driver fatigue

It is very difficult for drivers to accurately assess their own level of fatigue. The ability to self assess

becomes increasingly impaired as you get more fatigued, however the self-confidence in

this ability remains. Nevertheless, there are some warning signs to look out for, including:

Trouble focusing, or narrowing of attention
Head nodding, or inability to keep the eyes open
Not remembering the last few minutes
Poor judgment, slower reaction time
"Zoning out"
Daydreaming and wandering thoughts
Constant yawning or rubbing your eyes
Drifting in the lane

Keep in mind that if you are experiencing any of these symptoms of driver fatigue, it is very

likely that your driving performance is already impaired.

Causes of driver fatigue

There are two main causes of driver fatigue:

Lack of quality/quantity of sleep
Driving at times of the day when you would normally be sleeping.

The end result is not getting enough sleep, which can lead to a build-up of a "sleep debt or

deficit" – this is essentially the sleep that you 'owe' yourself. The only way to repay this debt is

by sleeping.

Until you can catch up on lost sleep you will have a greater risk of having a fatigue-related

accident.

A number of factors influence the likelihood that a driver will become fatigued, these include:

How long you have been awake (particularly beyond about 17 hours)
Time of day: your body and brain have a biological clock (circadian rhythm) that
influences how alert or drowsy we are at certain times of the day
The quantity and quality of your last period of sleep
Nobody is immune to the effects of driver fatigue; however some groups of people are
more at risk than others:
Young drivers: the combination of inexperience and night driving
Shift workers: Shift workers are 6 times more likely to be in a fatigue-related
crash, whether that be at work (operating machinery or vehicles) or commuting
Extended hours workers: Employees working extended hours for emergency or
public safety needs
Commercial drivers: Long distance driving, often at night
Business travelers: Drivers suffering from jet lag and crossing time zones oftensuffer from restricted and/or poor quality sleep
Your level of physical or mental activity at the time (e.g. long boring stretches of road
make it difficult to maintain alertness and vigilance)

The presence of untreated sleep disorders (such as obstructive sleep apnea or narcolepsy)
Sedative drugs

Effects and consequences of driver fatigue

The consequences of driver fatigue can be disastrous. Because fatigue impairs mental processing

and decision making abilities, drivers can lapse into a "micro-sleep" without realizing it. This

may only last a few seconds, but if it coincides with the need to perform some critical driving

task (e.g. turning the wheel or responding to a stop signal); the risk of crashing is greatly

increased.

These accidents typically involve a single vehicle that departs

the driving lane and collides with another object, such as a tree

beside the road. The driver is often alone, having been driving

for some hours, often between midnight and 6am. The consequences

of accidents attributed to driver fatigue are often the most serious

in terms of death, injuries and property damage because the fatigued

driver makes no attempt to avoid the impending crash.

This is why the effects of driver fatigue are so dangerous.

Thursday, June 23, 2016

Hand Signals for Backhoe / Loader

Backhoe / Loader Hand Signals

Friday, June 17, 2016

Wearing a Hard Hat is Only Half the Job

MILLIONS of hard hats are worn every day. In fact, the hard hat is one of the most recognizable pieces of safety equipment in the industrial workplace. It's also one of the most important pieces of safety equipment because it protects the brain. Unfortunately, this ubiquitous piece of personal protective equipment (PPE) is rarely part of an inspection, maintenance, or replacement program.

Many workers may be wearing a hard hat well past its useful life without even knowing it.

The durable exterior of the rugged-looking hard hat can disguise the need for replacement. Hard hats must be replaced when they can no longer provide the protection intended, and sometimes this can be difficult to detect. Workers who use gloves on a work site can obviously see (and feel) the need for new gloves; the wear and tear is readily apparent. On the other hand, many workers may be wearing a hard hat well past its useful life without even knowing it. In every organization where workers wear head protection on the job, a regular hard hat replacement program should be clearly defined and implemented. This type of hard hat replacement program can be implemented and managed with a few considerations.

OSHA, ironically, does not specify the service life of a hard hat, and there is no standard expiration time frame for hard hats. The hard hat manufacturer can recommend a replacement guideline for its products, but hard hat life span may vary significantly based upon the conditions at each work site. Ultimately, an employer is responsible for defining a responsive and appropriate solution for hard hat service life issues.

Useful Life of a Hard Hat

Determining a specific time frame for hard hat replacement at your site will take some research. As a general guideline, most manufacturers recommend replacing hard hats every five years regardless of outward appearance. If work conditions include exposure to higher temperature extremes, sunlight, or chemicals, hard hats should be replaced after two years of use. Some manufacturers recommend the replacement of the hard hat suspension every 12 months, regardless of appearance. Careful review of each work site is critical to ensure that degradation of PPE is not being accelerated due to extreme

Inspection and Maintenance

The typical ANSI Type I-compliant hard hat, which provides protection from objects striking the top of the head, consists of two components: shell and suspension. These components work together as a system. It is important for both the shell and suspension to be inspected on a regular basis.

Shell Inspection
Throughout history, many materials have been used to manufacture hard hat shells. Today, thermoplastics (polyethylene, polycarbonate, and others) and thermo set materials (fiberglass-reinforced polyesters and phenolic-impregnated textiles) are commonly used to mold shells of industrial hard hats. These materials have proven to be durable, reliable, and lightweight while providing effective protection. Given proper care, these materials will provide a reasonable service life under normal workplace conditions. But remember, these hard hats do not have an indefinite useful life, nor are they resistant to all physical and chemical exposures.

Regardless of the material, shells should be inspected routinely for dents, cracks, gouges, and any damage due to impact, penetration, abrasions, rough treatments, or wear that might reduce the degree of protection originally provided. Degradation of thermoplastic material may be apparent when the shell becomes stiff, brittle, faded, dull in color, or exhibits a chalky appearance. A hard hat should be replaced at first sign of any of these conditions.

Careful review of each work site is critical to ensure that degradation of PPE is not being accelerated due to extreme work conditions.

Exposure to direct sunlight will affect the life of the shell

Although most manufacturers add an ultraviolet inhibitor to the shell material of hard hats to protect against degradation caused by sunlight, all hard hats are susceptible to ultraviolet light damage. Workers should never store their hard hats in the rear window or dash of a vehicle or in direct sunlight. This is the quickest way to degrade the shell material and reduce the life of the product.

Suspension Inspection
The hard hat suspension is just as important to worker safety as the shell. The suspension actually helps to absorb the shock of a blow, so it must be in good condition at all times. Like the shell, the suspension must be inspected regularly and replaced from time to time. Suspensions should be inspected closely for cracks, frayed or cut crown straps, torn headband or size adjustment slots, loss of pliability, missing components, or other signs of wear. These conditions can be caused by perspiration, hair oils, or normal wear.

Wednesday, June 15, 2016

Top Four Construction Hazards

Top Four Construction Hazards

The top four causes of construction fatalities are:

1.Falls

2.Struck-By,

3.Caught-In/Between

4.Electrocutions

Prevent Falls

• Wear and use personal fall arrest equipment.

• Install and maintain perimeter protection.

• Cover and secure floor openings and label floor opening covers.

• Use ladders and scaffolds safely.

Prevent Struck-By

• Never position yourself between moving and fixed objects.

• Wear high-visibility clothes near equipment/vehicles.

Prevent Caught-In/Between

• Never enter an unprotected trench or excavation 5 feet or deeper without an adequate protective system in place; some trenches under 5 feet deep may also need such a system.

• Make sure the trench or excavation is protected either by sloping, shoring, benching or trench shield systems.

Prevent Electrocutions

• Locate and identify utilities before starting work.

• Look for overhead power lines when operating any equipment.

• Maintain a safe distance away from power lines; learn the safe distance requirements.

• Do not operate portable electric tools unless they are grounded or double insulated.

• Use ground-fault circuit interrupters for protection.

• Be alert to electrical hazards when working with ladders, scaffolds or other platforms

Monday, June 13, 2016

Pole Saw Safety Awareness

Because a pole pruner is a high speed cutting tool with a very long reach some very special safety precautions must be observed to reduce the risk of personal injury. Careless or improper use may cause serious or even fatal injury. Operation and handling instructions must be followed per manufacturer’s specifications.

Never operate this power tool in the vicinity of any wires or cables which may be carrying electric current. Electricity can jump from one point to another by means of arcing. Higher voltage increases the distance electric can arc. Electricity can also move through branches, especially when wet. Maintain a clearance of at least 50 feet between the pole pruner (including any branches it is contacting) and any electrical line carrying live current.

Be alert – always hold the unit firmly with both hands on the handles while you are working. To reduce the risk of severe or even fatal injury from falling objects do not cut vertically above your body. Hold the pruner at an angle of not more than 60 degrees from the horizontal level. Ensure all people in the vicinity maintain a safe distance (50 feet) while cutting.

Hard hats must be worn

when overhead

hazards are present.

They must meet ANSI

standards Z89.1-1989

or Z89.2-1971 for

impact protection.

Check for an ANSI

label inside the hat. Face shield must be used.

Meets ANSI Z87.1-2003 .

Safety Glasses Impact-resistant Lens

Design must protect sides.

Prescription Glasses

must have Impact

Resistant Lenses

and Side Shields

Ear muffs attached to the hard

hat that swing quickly into

position out of the way

when the saw is not running

are essential. The chain saw

runs at about 100 decibels.

Prolonged exposure to

noise greater than 85

decibels lead to gradual,

permanent hearing loss.

Hand Protection

Pole saw operators face special hazards on the job. Chainsaw gloves are made with premium grade leather for excellent dexterity, durability and water repellency. Slip on style. Ballistic Nylon back lined. Recommended minimum tight fitting heavy leather work glove.

Specialty Chainsaw Safety Boots are designed with Kevlar

Bureau of Labor Directive minimum requirement

for Chainsaw / Polesaw operators

6” Leather Safety toed boots

Always Follow Manufacturers Safe Operating Procedures !

Friday, June 10, 2016

Fall Protection Harness Donning Part 2

When Thunder Roars, Go Indoors!

Lightning Safety On The Job

Some workers are at greater risk than others. People who work outdoors in open spaces, on or near tall objects, with explosives, or with conductive materials such as metal have a large exposure to lightning risks. Workers in these occupations are among those with the most risk:

· Logging

· Explosives handling or storage

· Heavy equipment operation

· Plumbing and pipefitting

· Construction and building maintenance

· Farming and field labor

· Telecommunications field repair

· Power utility field repair

When thunderstorms threaten, don’t start anything you can’t quickly stop.

Pay attention to the daily forecasts so you know what to expect during the day. Also pay attention to early signs of thunderstorms: high winds, dark clouds, rain, distant thunder or lightning. At this point, do not start any new task that you can’t quickly stop.

Know your company’s lightning safety warning program.

Businesses that have high risk functions – such as explosives storage or field repairs during severe weather – should have a formal lightning warning policy that meets these two basic requirements:

1. Lightning danger warnings can be issued in time for everyone to get to safe location.

2. Access to a safe place. Assess your lightning risk and take precautionary action

During thunderstorms, no place outside is safe. But you can minimize your risk by assessing the lightning threat and taking the appropriate actions.

Count the number of seconds from when you see the lightning flash until you

hear the thunder. If you count 30 seconds or less you are in immediate danger. Stop what you’re doing and seek safety in a substantial building. If a substantial building is not available, a metal-topped vehicle with the

windows up is your next best choice.

Objects and equipment to avoid during thunderstorms

v Stay off of and away from anything tall or high, including rooftops, scaffolding, utility poles, ladders, trees, and large equipment such as bulldozers, cranes, backhoes, track loaders, and tractors.

v Do not touch materials or surfaces that can conduct electricity, including metal scaffolding, metal equipment, utility lines, water, water pipes, and plumbing.

v Leave areas with explosives or munitions.

If a co-worker is struck by lightning:

v The victim does not carry any electrical charge.

v Call 9-1-1 or your local Emergency Management Services phone number.

v If the victim’s heart stopped or they stopped breathing, immediately administer CPR.

TOP-10 MYTHS OF LIGHTNING SAFETY

1. MYTH: Lightning Never Strikes The Same Place Twice

TRUTH: Lightning often strikes the same place repeatedly, especially if it’s a tall pointy isolated object. The Empire

State Building used to be used as a lightning laboratory, since it is hit nearly 25 times a year. Places prone

to lightning are places to avoid when thunderstorms are nearby!

2. MYTH: If it’s Not Raining, Or If Clouds Aren’t Overhead, I’m Safe From Lightning

TRUTH: Lightning often strikes more than three miles from the thunderstorm, far outside the rain or even

thunderstorm cloud. ‘Bolts From The Blue’, though infrequent, can strike 10-15 Miles from the thunderstorm.

Anvil lightning can strike the ground over 50 Miles from the thunderstorm, under extreme conditions.

Lightning in clouds has traveled over 100 miles from the thunderstorm.

3. MYTH: Rubber Tires Protect You From Lightning In A Car By Insulating You From The Ground

TRUTH: Lightning laughs at two inches of rubber! Most cars are reasonably safe from lightning. But it’s the metal roof and metal sides that protect you, not the rubber tires. Thus convertibles, motorcycles, bicycles, open

shelled outdoor recreational vehicles, and cars with plastic or fiberglass shells offer no lightning protection. Likewise, farm and construction vehicles with open cockpits offer no lightning protection. But closed cockpits with metal roof and sides are safer than going outside. And don’t even ask about sneakers!

4. MYTH: A Lightning Victim Is Electrified. If You Touch Them, You’ll Be Electrocuted.

TRUTH: The human body doesn’t store electricity. It is perfectly safe to touch a lightning victim to give them first aid. This is the most chilling of lightning myths. Imagine someone dying needlessly, for want of simple CPR or mouth-to-mouth resuscitation, when their chance of survival was 90%!

5. MYTH: If Outside in A Thunderstorm, Go Under A Tree To Stay Dry

TRUTH: Being underneath trees is the second leading activity for lightning casualties – enough said?!

6. MYTH: I’m In A House, I’m Safe From Lightning

TRUTH: While a house is a good place for lightning safety, just going inside isn’t enough. You must avoid any conducting path leading outside, such as corded telephones, electrical appliances, wires, TV cables,

plumbing (including plastic pipes with water in them), metal doors or window frames, etc. Don’t stand near a window to watch the lightning. An inside room is generally best.

7. MYTH: When Playing Sports And Thunderstorms Threaten, It’s Okay To Finish The Game Before Seeking Shelter

TRUTH: Sports is the activity with the fastest rising rate of lightning casualties. No game is worth death or life-long

severe injury. All people associated with sports should have a lightning safety plan and stick to it strictly.

Seek proper shelter immediately when lightning threatens. Adults are responsible for the safety of children!

8. MYTH: Structures With Metal, Or Metal On The Body (Jewelry, Watches, Glasses, Backpacks, Etc.), Attract Lightning

TRUTH: Height, pointy shape, and isolation are the dominant factors controlling where a lightning bolt will strike. The presence of metal makes virtually no difference on where lightning strikes. Mountains are made of stone, but receive many strikes each year. When lightning threatens, take proper protective action immediately. Don’t

waste time shedding metal off your body, or seeking shelter under inadequate structures. But while metal doesn’t attract lightning, touching or being near long metal objects (fences, railings, bleachers, vehicles, etc.) is still unsafe when thunderstorms are nearby. If lightning does happen to hit it, the metal can conduct the

electricity a long distance (even over 100 yards) and still electrocute you.

9. MYTH: If Trapped Outside And Lightning Is About To Strike, Lie Flat On The Ground

TRUTH: This advice is decades out of date. Better advice is to use the ‘Lightning Crouch’: put your feet together, squat low, tuck your head, and cover your ears. Lightning induces electric currents along the top of the ground that can be deadly over 100 Feet away. While lying flat on the ground gets you as low as possible, which is good, it increases your chance of being hit by a ground current, which is bad. The best combination of being low and touching the ground as little as possible is the ‘Lightning Crouch’. But the ‘Lightning Crouch’ should be used only as a last resort. Much better would be to plan outdoor activities around the

weather to avoid thunderstorm exposure and to have proper shelter available.

10. MYTH: Go near a tall pointy isolated object when thunderstorms threaten, to be within the 45° “cone of protection”

TRUTH: The “cone of protection” is a myth! While tall pointy isolated objects are statistically more likely to be struck by lightning, it’s not nearly reliable enough to rely on for safety. Lightning can still strike you near the tall object. Besides, the lightning electricity will likely spread out along the surface of the ground and can still kill you over 100 Ft from the “protecting” object. Also, if you are close to or touching the tall object, you can be electrocuted via side flash or contact voltage. NO PLACE OUTSIDE IS SAFE NEAR A THUNDERSTORM!

In lightning safety, a “myth” is not as good as a mile .. Distance and proper shelter is your best protection from lightning.

This list is for information only. No guarantee of lightning safety is stated or implied for this list. For a full description of personal lightning safety, see the Lightning Safety Group recommendations.